Seed stitch (moss stitch in the UK) is worked by alternating one knit and one purl, and shifting that alternation on every row. The result is a fine, textured fabric that is reversible, lies flat without curling and looks beautiful in scarves, blankets and cowls. In this video we work it step by step.
How to knit seed stitch, step by step
- Cast on an odd number of stitches. With an odd count every row starts and ends the same way and the pattern takes care of itself.
- Row 1: k1, p1 to the end; the row finishes on a knit stitch.
- Row 2: exactly the same, k1, p1. Because the count is odd, every knit lands on top of a purl from the previous row.
- Repeat those two rows. That is the whole mechanism of seed stitch.
- Check the pattern. Every raised bump should sit above a flat stitch. If you see vertical columns, you are knitting ribbing, not seed stitch.
Common mistakes
- Casting on an even number. It works, but then you must reverse the order on every row — the number one reason seed stitch turns into ribbing by accident.
- Not moving the yarn. Going from knit to purl means moving the yarn from back to front. Forget it and you get yarn overs and extra stitches.
- Losing your place. Just look at the stitch below: if it is flat, purl over it; if it is bumpy, knit it.
Frequently asked questions
Are seed stitch and moss stitch the same?
They are close. Seed stitch changes the alternation every row; moss stitch holds it for two rows, which gives a more pronounced texture. In the UK, seed stitch is often called moss stitch.
Is it good for scarves?
It is one of the best: identical on both sides and it doesn’t curl, unlike stockinette stitch.
How much yarn does it use?
A little more than stockinette, because the fabric is denser. Allow 10–15% extra compared with a stockinette pattern.
What we used in the video
BeMe yarn by The Woolcatcher and circular needles. Browse the full natural yarn collection.
