The purl stitch is the other half of knitting: together with the knit stitch it makes stockinette, ribbing and almost every textured pattern. In this video we show you how to work it step by step, where the yarn goes and why purl stitches usually come out looser than knit stitches at first.
How to purl, step by step
- Bring the yarn to the front. Unlike the knit stitch, the working yarn sits in front of the work.
- Enter the stitch. Insert the right needle into the first stitch from right to left, in front of the left needle.
- Wrap the yarn. Take the yarn around the right needle, from front to back.
- Draw the new stitch through. Pull the wrap backwards through the old stitch.
- Drop the old stitch. Let it slide off the left needle.
Common mistakes
- Forgetting to move the yarn. If the yarn stays at the back you create an extra wrap and your stitch count goes wrong.
- Looser purl stitches. The most common issue in stockinette: the purl side comes out slacker. Fix it by working your purls consciously a little tighter.
- Entering through the back leg. The stitch ends up twisted and the fabric tightens. Always check how the stitch sits on the needle.
Frequently asked questions
Why are my purl stitches bigger?
It’s normal — most knitters purl more loosely than they knit. If it shows in the fabric, try purling with a needle half a size smaller.
What do knit and purl make together?
Alternating by row gives stockinette stitch; alternating within the same row gives 1x1 ribbing or seed stitch.
Can I avoid purling altogether?
Knitting in the round gives stockinette with knit stitches only. But for flat knitting and for any ribbing, the purl stitch is essential.
What we used in the video
BeMe yarn by The Woolcatcher and circular needles. Browse the full natural yarn collection.
