1x1 ribbing is worked by alternating one knit and one purl stitch. It is the most useful stitch pattern in knitting because it makes a fabric that stretches and springs back — which is why it shows up in cuffs, hat brims, sweater hems and scarf edges. In this video we work it step by step.
How to knit 1x1 ribbing, step by step
- Cast on an even number of stitches. That way every knit column has its purl column.
- Work k1, p1 to the end of the row.
- Move the yarn at every change. Going from knit to purl the yarn comes forward; going back to knit it goes behind.
- Follow the pattern on the next rows. Knit over the knits and purl over the purls — that is what forms the vertical columns.
- Bind off in pattern. To keep the edge stretchy, bind off knitting the knits and purling the purls.
Common mistakes
- Losing the pattern. Knit over a purl on any row and your ribbing becomes seed stitch. Always read the stitch below.
- Loose stitches between columns. The strand slackens when you switch from knit to purl. Give the yarn a gentle tug on the first stitch after each change.
- Binding off too tight. A cuff you can’t get your hand through is usually the bind-off’s fault, not the ribbing’s.
Frequently asked questions
How many rows of ribbing for a hat brim?
Between 15 and 30 rounds, depending on how deep you want the brim and whether you plan to fold it. Our cable hat has a worked example.
1x1 or 2x2 ribbing?
1x1 is stretchier and hugs more; 2x2 reads more graphic and is quicker to knit. For close-fitting cuffs, choose 1x1.
Why doesn’t my ribbing pull in?
Almost always because the needle is too large. Ribbing is normally worked half a size to a full size below the needle used for the body.
What we used in the video
BeMe yarn by The Woolcatcher and circular needles. Browse the full natural yarn collection.
